Where in the world is YOUR favourite cuppa joe?

"Where is your favourite place to travel?"

Cups up! Campfire cappuccino.

As a travel writer, that's one of the questions constantly asked of me when I meet someone for the first time.

That's not what I'm writing about, though.

If you've ever wandered onto my Facebook personal page, you probably know how much I love coffee. And coffee culture. And trivia about coffee. Friends are constantly posting stuff about coffee onto my Timeline.

And, of course, people always like to know what my favourite coffee is, where is my favourite place to drink or purchase coffee, and - since I'm a travel writer - where is the best cup of coffee I've ever had.

That's easy.

The best cup of coffee I ever had was during my very first international trip (outside of Canada and the U.S.) in 1991.

Belize.

I remember it like it was yesterday.

It was our last day, we had an afternoon flight out of Belize City to LAX, then on to Vancouver.

For our last meal in the country, we decided to go for brunch at the Fort George Hotel.

From the first sip, we knew we'd stumbled on something exquisite. We were having coffee-gasms. Right there in the hotel dining room.

Several cups later, we finally came up for air, and asked our server what kind of coffee it was.

He smiled, and said, "Guatemalan chocolate coffee."

Even Nikki, our African grey parrot, loved Second Cup.
We never feed our birds caffeine, though.

Now it was not "flavoured" coffee; I'm not a fan of that type of coffee (yeah, I'm a purist). The "chocolate" was simply what it was called. It was rich, sweet, fragrant, smooth - and that was just the aroma. It almost didn't need cream or sugar.


After I returned home, I was on a mission to find a coffee as close to that coffee as I could. None of the Guatemalan coffees I tried came close, though. Then, eight months later, at a mall in Edmonton, I decided to grab a coffee at a Second Cup.

Now I'd never tried their coffees, since, at the time, I lived in Fort St. John, B.C. and there were no Second Cups, not even a Tim Horton's there, at the time. I looked at the menu, saw "Guatemalan" beside something called "Huehuetenango." So, I tried it.

Bingo!

While it wasn't exactly what I'd had in Belize, it was the closest I'd ever come. Or ever would come: Sweet, rich, mellow, just about perfect. I liked it so much, I gave them my address and credit card info, and set up monthly shipments of a few pounds to Fort St. John so I could enjoy it all the time.

Slurping coffee aboard a Chilean ship docked in North Van.

Sadly, Second Cup - the only company licensed to sell it in Canada, then - stopped carrying the brand in 2008. I found a place in Ontario that now sells it, and will ship it, but it didn't taste as good as it had in the past, so I've resigned myself to life at Tim's. Cheaper, less hassle, but not as good.

Since that trip to Belize, I've sampled coffee all over the world. Ironically, because we import coffee from places like African and South America for consumption in North America, that often leaves lesser-quality coffee in those countries.

Travelling around Africa for six weeks, I gave up trying to enjoy a good cup of coffee, and opted for tea instead.

Ditto, in Ecuador. Although I didn't give up coffee for tea, it was not as good as the coffee I drank at home.

When I returned to South America six years later, Starbucks had infiltrated the consumer coffee market, so forget about enjoying an authentic native coffee.

Starbucks in Lima tastes the same as Starbucks in Taipei, which tastes the same as Starbucks in Vancouver, which tastes the same... you get the picture. And yeah, I'm not a Starbucks fan. If I want burnt coffee, I'll take a cup of Tim's and re-heat it in the microwave.

I have enjoyed good cups of coffee elsewhere.

The best iced cappuccino I've enjoyed was a Terri's Cappuccino Bar in Fort St. John. It was a regular daily indulgence there, winter and summer, for two years.

Don't forget to add the Bailey's!

And nothing beats a cup of "campfire cappuccino, brewed on a camp stove, served up with a healthy portion of Bailey's, during a camping or paddling trip.

I tried to obtain some samples of Kopi Luwak during a trip to Malaysian Borneo, as that renowned "civet-poop coffee" is produced in Indonesia. No luck, though - although I did enjoy some wonderful "pulled tea." (As it turns out, the way this coffee is harvested may not be in keeping with good practices with respect to treatment of wildlife, so I may postpone the hunt indefinitely.)

Enjoying a coffee on the road in Haida Gwaii.

As for other coffees...

Kona coffee from Hawaii is VASTLY overrated, in my opinion. I've sampled several cups on both Maui and the Big Island, including some at a coffee plantation.

Quite frankly, I couldn't figure out what the fuss was all about.

And while I've never sampled Jamaican Blue, I suspect my reaction would be much the same as it was to Kona.


That's not to say I'll never enjoy a cup of coffee on the road. But I feel like I've already found the Holy Grail of Coffee, so I'm resigned to the fact that even if I'm at Avalon, the coffee they serve there probably will not match the cup I enjoyed back on that April morning in Central America.

The day I joined 'the Club'

If that title doesn't make you curious enough to read further, almost nothing will...

You'd have to be a pretty incurious sort to not at least want to find out which club it is I joined - the Playboy Club? The Hair Club for Men (and now Women, I see)? The Press Club? The Rod and Gun Club? The Explorers Club?

While I wouldn't mind joining some of those above-mentioned clubs (and would like avoid a few, if possible), if you guessed any of those, you guessed wrong.

I'm talking about joining ... (drum roll, please!) ...

The Sour Toe Cocktail Club!

Of course, what else, would it be?

I am actually celebrating my second anniversary of having joined that illustrious club, so I figured I should shout it to the world (or at least the Internet!)

For those not familiar with the Sour Toe Cocktail (or without the inclination to click on the link above, because you just can't tear yourself away from my riveting prose!), essentially, it involves taking a shot of your favorite liquor libation which also shares a glass with a (get ready for this) a sour toe - that is, an actual human toe that has been dehydrated and preserved in salt.

And - get this - in order to actually qualify, you have to drink the drink and let the toe touch your lips at some point while drinking.

Like the club motto says, "You can drink it fast, you can drink it slow - but the lips have gotta touch the toe."

Only in Canada, you say ...

The tradition began in Dawson City, in the Yukon Territory. Originally, the toe (the original one thought to have been "donated" by some "sourdough" from the Klondike Gold Rush days, probably one lost through frostbite while mushing down the trail) had to be placed in a beer glass full of champagne in order to be an official, genuine Sour Toe Cocktail.

These days, it's a bit more relaxed, it can be any drink - even non-alcoholic, apparently - but where's the fun in that?

Captain Dick welcomes me to the fraternity.

Now ideally, you would become a member of the club by drinking the cocktail in the Yukon. However, Yours Truly became a member in Vancouver, during the 2010 Winter Olympics.

Like many other tourism boards, Tourism Yukon hosted an event during the Games.

It was at that event I had the opportunity to sit down with Captain Dick, the official head of the club, and became a member of this illustrious group. So in a sense, I was sort of on "Yukon soil," kind of like when you're at a Russian embassy in a foreign country, you're considered to be on Russian soil.


Anyway, I sat beside the captain, and I had a choice of rye whiskey, rum, vodka or tequila to mix with my toe. Sadly, there was no Yukon Jack available, that would have been my ideal choice. But, my second choice was whiskey.



A friend of mine, fellow travel writer Lenora Hayman, stood by to snap a picture of the momentous occasion. However, her camera was not as fast as my quaffing ability - I picked up the drink, belted it back - and she still hadn't got the pic.

So I did the only thing I could - I froze in stop-action mode, holding the glass up to my mouth, the toe resting against my lips, all the liquor drained.

 

For half a second, I toyed with the idea of putting the tip of my tongue on it to really see what the toe tasted like, but common sense quickly overruled that, and the picture was taken. Whew!

It didn't really taste that bad, the whiskey was good, went down quick - and I became a card-carrying club member for life.

By the way, although you get a membership card and certificate, you don't get to keep the toe - you have to give it back.

Now, if you want an opportunity to join this elite group, this would be a perfect year - in fact, this month would be the perfect month to do so. The Yukon is hosting its 2012 Yukon Sourdough Rendezvous Feb. 23-26, to mark the 70th anniversary of the Alaska Highway (also known as the Alcan Highway).

 Snowshoeing, one winter activity you can enjoy in the Yukon.

Even if you can't make that date, a trip to the Yukon at any of the year will give you the opportunity to become a member of the Sour Toe Cocktail Club, as well as providing plenty of other excellent travel adventures, including paddling trips and bird-watching in the summer, or dog-sledding and snowshoeing if you prefer to visit during the winter.

Can't make it? Well, you can always buy Sour Toe memorabilia online - even a chocolate sour toe or two.

But, of course, that won't make you a member of the club ...



Sips and snails and cocktail tales ... ?

Now that I've grabbed your attention...

From time to time in this space I've alluded to some of the various beverages and concoctions I've enjoyed, both at home and in my travels around the world.

Regular readers may have picked up on the fact that I love "vintage" ... anything. Vintage travel books, vintage travel stickers, vintage travel posters, vintage movies, vintage music, vintage clothing - the list is pretty much endless.

So it stands to reason that any event that combines cocktails with a vintage theme is almost a "must-not-miss" event on my social/travel calendar.

That's why I'm so pumped up about attending the "Tales of the Cocktail Tour Vancouver" 2012 Hollywood North official opening party, this coming Sunday evening at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia, in downtown Vancouver.

To quote from the invitation/press release I received the other day:

"This event will take you back to 1930's Vancouver, a favourite Hollywood haunt at the height of U.S. prohibition ...1930's-themed cocktails from Hendrick's Gin, Glenfiddich, Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum, Tullamore Dew, Grant's and Gibson's Finest will be served by spirits superstars like Charlotte Voisey - the two time Tales of the Cocktail Golden Spirit Winner and William Grant & Sons Global Brand Ambassador - and Xavier Padovani, the Global Brand Ambassador for Hendrick's Gin."

Wow. Guess I better dust off the old fedora for this event. (But for the record - I won't be wearing spats. I don't own spats. In fact, I've never worn spats. I've had a few, mind you ...)

Running through until Wednesday, the entire multi-day event features tastings, seminars and lots and LOTS of good food. And cocktails.

Of course, Yours Truly will be blogging about the opening after attending it. But until then, to honor the spirit (or "spirits") of the event, I'll share with you a few cocktail recipes (some vintage, some not so vintage) along with some book titles you may want to check out.

STORK CLUB

Named for the famous New York night club, from The Stork Club Cocktail Book (1946)

- 1-1/2 oz gin

- juice of half an orange

- dash of lime juice

- dash Cointreau

- dash Angostura bitters



A stork club: icy cold and ready to sip.

Pour ingredients into an ice-filled shaker. Shake, then pour into a cocktail glass.

(While the original recipe is taken from the book listed above, I came upon it in one of the books I consider to be one of my "cocktail bibles": Straight Up or On the Rocks, A cultural history of American drink, by William Grimes.)

                          VESPER MARTINI

Here it is, the official, the one-and-only James Bond Vesper Martini. This makes ONE martini, so use with caution ...

- 3 oz. dry gin
- 1 oz vodka
- 1/2 oz. blonde Lillet (it's a French aperitif)

Pour ingredients into chilled cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well for one minute. Strain into chilled martini glass with a large, thin slice of lemon peel.

(Originally from Ian Fleming's Casino Royale (1953); again, I discovered it in Grimes' book Straight Up or On the Rocks. )

  

The ONLY way to make a Vesper...

AFRICAN PARROT (or PARAKEET)

I have to include at least one "parrot" drink in this blog, given its name. This one comes from The Essential Book of Boat Drinks & Assorted Frozen Concoctions (that help me hang on!) by Olaf Nordstrom.

- 1 oz blackberry brandy

- 1/2 oz port

- 1/2 oz brandy

Fill shaker with cracked ice. Add ingredients. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

CANOE RIVER SPECIAL

Try as I might to find one, none of my cocktail reference/recipe books featured any kind of drink with the word "canoe," "kayak" or even "paddle" in their name. However, a search of the web turned up this recipe on Drinks Mixer :

- 1/4 cup Kahlua coffee liqueur

- 1/4 cup Bailey's Irish cream

- 3/4 oz Grand Marnier orange liqueur

- 1 dash Absolut vodka

Pour all ingredients into a blender 3/4 filled with crushed ice.

Blend until smooth. Pour into a cocktail glass, and serve.



Good reading, better drinking.

One final note: although I didn't include any recipes from this book here in this blogpost, one of my favorite books of all time on the subject of cocktails is Hemingway & Bailey's Bartending Guide To Great American Writers.

Each two-page section features a bio, a bibliography and a recipe of a particular writer's favorite drink.

Well worth the purchase.

Anyway, happy imbibing!

Maybe I'll see you Sunday at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia in downtown Vancouver; just look for the guy in the brown fedora...



'Tis The Season To Be Cooking (and taking culinary journeys)...

After reading an article all about cookbook gift ideas well written by Mia Stansby in the Vancouver Sun (Wednesday, Dec. 21 edition), I thought, they're nice books, but I don't think any of them would be books I'd want in my collection.

I do have quite a collection - an entire bookshelf of cookbooks, in fact.

However ...

They're NOT your grandmother's cookbooks, though...(in fact, they're probably not even your mother's cookbooks - unless she happened to be a headhunter, Moroccan refugee or operator of a bordello).

I collect some of the most eclectic cookbooks you would ever want to read.

Okay, I know you're probably thinking, "What does this have to do with travel?" (Or for that matter, paddling or parrots?)

The fact is, culinary travel - adventures with food, journeys revolving around experiencing the food eaten by other cultures, cooking tours, or whatever term you want to use - is a huge segment of the travel market, these days.

At some point in the future, I'll probably write a blog post about the weirdest foods I've eaten while travelling. But for now, here are a few of my favorite cookbooks that also involve travel - if not real travel, then at least travel of your taste buds to new and distant foods.

To the best of my knowledge, all of these books are available online at Amazon.whatever - if not new, then certainly used.

DINING WITH HEADHUNTERS: Jungle Feasts and Other Culinary Adventures by  Richard Sterling

This is much more than just a cookbook; it's a collection of stories about the author's adventures around southeast Asia, many experienced while he served in the U.S. Navy during the conflict in Vietnam, during the late 1960's and early '70's. Some stories are just plain funny, some poignant, some bawdy (hey, he was a sailor, after all!) and some a combination of all of the above.

Each story is followed by at least one, usually more than one, recipe. The recipes are all based on food or drink he actually experienced in the story with which they're linked.

A few of my fav's: Satay Malaya from "The Feasts of Fatima," a story about falling halfway in love with a lady of the evening; Mojo (a drink) from "Mojo Rising," a story about a retired madam (hmmm...mmm..., am I detecting a pattern here...?); and Madalay Mail Chicken, from "Train Fare" (nope, no working girls in that one!)

THE CASABLANCA COOKBOOK: Wining and Dining at Rick's by Sarah Key, Jennifer Newman Brazil and Vicki Wells

Being a huge fan of this movie, and the owner of several other books about Bogey (and a few Moroccan cookbooks, as well), I had to add this one to my collection several years ago. In addition to some excellent recipes for drinks (champagne cocktail, Senor Ferrari's iced almond coffee) and food (coriander shrimp kebabs, ground lamb kebabs) this little volume contains photos from the movie, games and quotes from the movie. A "must-have" if you're a fan of the movie, a fan of Moroccan food, or just a collector of eclectic cookbooks like Yours Truly.

I really do love Moroccan food, so I guess one of these days, I may even have to travel there...

THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ASIAN COOKING Edited by Jeni Wright

This book has been in our household, well, ever since we've had a household. I used it regularly for preparing foods from India, Malaysia, the Philippines, Vietnam, Burma and Thailand, to name but a few. It's not really eclectic, I guess, but it certainly is useful. It even offers suggestions for recipe substitutions if you can't find an ingredient needed for a particular dish (which can sometimes be a bit of a problem if you live in a community without much selection or variety of Asian ingredients.) It also provides measurements in both metric and imperial formats.

Cooking Thai Cashew Chicken, a recipe from Extending the Table

THE LAST DINNER ON THE TITANIC: Menus and Recipes from the Great Liner by Rick Archbold and Dana McCauley

This is an amazing book, if you're into history, culinary or otherwise. It gives you a glimpse of what it was like to travel on what was, in its day, the largest ocean liner in the world. It details how the ship was organized in terms of class structure (based on whether you were sailing first-class, second-class or third-class. The passengers were restricted, by class, where they could dine, or even have a drink - quite a difference from today's cruise ship industry.

It includes some old photos as well as artists' renderings and conversion charts (after all, these recipes were from Edwardian England, so some recipes do need adjusting).

It's a wonderful book, taking you back to the last days of the "Golden Age of Travel."

EXTENDING THE TABLE: Recipes and stories from Argentina to Zimbabwe by Joetta Handrich Schlabach

This collection of world recipes is another cooking tome that's well-thumbed in our household. It features recipes galore as well as stories from around the world. One of the features I really enjoy is the way the book includes proverbs and quotes about food, sprinkling them throughout the book like a good cook sprinkles herbs and spices throughout a culinary creation to create a tasty meal. Example: Egyptian proverb: "An onion offered by a true friend is like a whole lamb."

A wonderful book for anyone wanting to explore the cuisine of other cultures within the confines of their own kitchen.

WANAPITEI CANOE TRIPPERS' COOKBOOK by Carol Hodgins

You had to know, given the title of this blog, that at least one book would involve a cooking-paddling combination, right?

This book - which is designed in a way that you could take it canoeing with you - talks about nutrition in the wilderness - an entire section is devoted to it. There's also a section on water and environmental issues.

Then there are the recipes ... breakfasts, bannock and bread, meals, soups, salads, desserts - this book covers them all, and more. Say good-bye to those freeze-dried packs you buy at outdoor stores and say hello to some real cooking ...